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September 7, 2026 Post by : Editorial Wood-Fired Baking
Cooking with Ash: An Old Technique Worth Relearning Baking with Almond Flour: What Works and What Does Not

Almond flour has a reputation problem in the baking world. People buy a bag, substitute it directly for wheat flour in their favorite cake recipe, and end up with a dense, greasy brick. They conclude that almond flour does not work. The truth is that almond flour works beautifully, but only if you understand what it is and what it is not.

Almond flour is ground blanched almonds. It contains no gluten, no starch, and a great deal of fat. That fat makes it rich and moist, but it also means it cannot provide the structure that wheat does. A cake made entirely with almond flour will be tender and flavorful, but it will not rise the way a wheat cake does, and it will not hold its shape without help. Once you accept this, a whole world of baking opens up.

Where Almond Flour Shines

The recipes that work best with almond flour are those that do not depend on gluten for their structure. Think flourless chocolate cakes, French macarons, frangipane tarts, and certain quick breads. In these, the almond flour is not a substitute. It is the point. A flourless chocolate cake made with almond flour is not a compromise. It is a superior version of the thing, dense and fudgy and intensely chocolatey.

In a wood-fired oven, almond flour baked goods are particularly well suited. The high fat content means they brown quickly, so you want to bake them at a slightly lower temperature than you would a wheat cake, around 325 to 350 degrees. If your oven is hotter than that, move the cake to a cooler part of the floor or cover it with foil for the first half of baking.

Where It Fails, and How to Adapt

Breads, sandwich loaves, and anything that needs to rise and hold a crumb structure will not work with almond flour alone. You can use it in combination with wheat flour, usually up to about a third of the total, to add richness and flavor. You can also combine it with other gluten-free flours and a binder like psyllium husk or xanthan gum, though this takes experimentation and patience.

The other thing to know about almond flour is that it goes rancid quickly because of its fat content. Store it in the freezer, where it will keep for six months or more. Bring it to room temperature before baking, and always taste it before you use it. If it smells like old oil, throw it out. No recipe can save rancid flour.

What I love about baking with almond flour is how it forces you to pay attention. You cannot follow a recipe on autopilot. You have to taste, adjust, and learn. That is true of wood-fired baking in general, and it is one of the reasons I keep coming back to it. The oven does not care about your schedule. It cares about the fire, the dough, and the moment. Everything else is negotiable.

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